The city of Nurnberg...

Yesterday I posted on the Christmas market in Nurnberg, but today I want to address the city itself. Nurnberg has about 500,000 inhabitants and has two distinct parts - the old historic center of the city, and the modern metropolis outside the walls of the center.

The city outside of the center seems practical and efficient - very Germanic - but with unremarkable architecture. It could be any one of scores of medium sized European cities. Where Nurnberg shines is in the historic center. It is perhaps the most pedestrian friendly city in Europe. The entire center, perhaps 1/2 square mile, is pedestrian. Cobblestone streets with shops on both sides but no cars (or buses) allowed. A river runs through the center but it is not very wide - maybe 60 feet - and there are numerous bridges (pedestrian, of course) that span the river.


After Dresden, which was firebombed, Nurnberg was the next most damaged German city during WWII with approximately 90% of its building damaged or destroyed. They have done a good job in the rebuilding, mixing reconstructed buildings with newer. They even have a subway system (that we didn't have a need to use) which runs to the center. Bicycles are also extremely popular even though the temperature was in the low 40s.



By the way, here is a picture of the restaurant where we had dinner on Friday evening and where Kathy got food poisoning. It really was a nice place, apart from the food poisoning.

Back from Nurnberg...

We got back from Nurnberg by mid-afternoon, a couple of hours earlier than expected. Unfortunately, the reason we left Nurnberg earlier than planned was because Kathy got sick during the night. She felt fine when we went to bed but she woke up during the night feeling poorly with a headache and sour stomach and by morning she was throwing up at both ends.

I strongly suspect food poisoning. Although we sampled several things at the Christmas market, we had dinner at a well known place that is referenced in the guide book we have. It was actually just what we were looking for. Great ambience, cavernous and full of people, most of them Germans and I assume local. They make their own beer. The German waiter spoke excellent English and helped us with the German-only menu. Still, Kathy's symptoms are what one would expect with food poisoning, it came on quickly, and Noah and I are fine.

So this morning while Kathy stayed in bed Noah and I made another trip back to the Christmas market for sausage sandwiches (ah, the breakfast of champions). For dessert he had a Tootsie Roll from the American booth (they had a section where each stall was represented by a country) and I had waffle with powdered sugar from one of the locals.

We went back to the hotel to collect Kathy, loaded up the car and headed home. She got sick once on the way - being sick and travelling do not mix very well.

Noah and me on the big carousel. It was a lot of fun and Noah went on three times.


















We cajoled Noah to have his picture taken with Father Christmas (we promised a big molassas cookie from the booth next door if he had his picture taken). The guy was very nice - he asked where we were froom and seem tickled that we were American.


















Here is part of the center of Nurnberg, after the formal opening of the Christmas market.

The Nurnberg Christmas Market...

Noah is off of school on Friday and I have taken a day of vacation so that we can take a drive to Nurnberg, Germany. We are going primarily to see the Chrstmas Market, or "Christkindlesmarkt" in German. It is supposed to be very elaborate, and would certainly seem to be based on their web site. It's sort of like a cross between the St. Paul Winter Carnival and the Minnesota State Fair.


It just so happens that the market will formally open Friday evening at 5:30 and we will be there for that event. I am a little worried about the size of the crowd, but it shouldbe interesteting nonetheless. Here is what the web site says about the opening of the the market.
The opening of the Nuremberg Christmas Market, always on the Friday before the first Advent Sunday, is an impressive event, both for Nuremberg people and tourists.

TV teams report this pre-Christmas event to countries all over the world. People throng the Main Market Square between the Christmas Market stalls. Children crane their necks and stare at the darkened gallery of Our Lady's Church. At 5.30 p.m. sharp, trumpets are blown, the "Junge Chor Nürnberg" from the local music school sings Christmas songs. Finally, the lights are switched on. In the bright lights, the Nuremberg Christmas Angel stands on the gallery and recites her famous prologue, opening the Christmas Market.

The web site has a live web cam, so if you can see the opening along with us by visiting the web cam at 11:30 am on Friday.

It's about a 3 hour drive to/from Nurnberg and we expect to be home by 6:00 pm or so on Saturday night.